I’ve read many biographies. They’re one of my preferred book topics. Similar to Sam Wasson’s Fifth Avenue, 5 A.M. (reviewed last week), Tilar J. Mazzeo’s The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is not your typical biography. Just read its subtitle: “The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume.” This is indeed the biography of a scent.

Let’s start with what I knew before I read this book…
Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel was a breakthrough Parisian designer, rising to fame during World War I and turning heads with her simple designs, often inspired by menswear. Thanks to her influence, black dresses, women’s trousers, and pearls became fashionable. Coco was indeed a determined, business savvy woman.
But Chanel No. 5 perfume? Well, I’ve never even smelled it. I know many famous beauties have served as the “face” of No. 5, including most recently Nicole Kidman and Audrey Tautou (the current spokesmodel). Of course, I know the iconic square bottle. And I’ve definitely heard Marilyn Monroe’s famous quote…“What do I wear to bed? Why, Chanel No. 5, of course.” (This, before she was even asked to be the spokesmodel.)
So when I began reading this book, I was prepared to learn the story behind this famous scent and its creator. The complexity of its history took me by surprise…
The story begins in Coco’s childhood in the late 1800s. But instead of detailing influences on her fashion designs and strong will – so typical in every Chanel biopic – the story instead focuses on how scents and the number 5 weaved themselves throughout her bumpy life. Everything from her childhood residence, to her stunt as a cabaret dancer (apparently a dream of hers), to the man believed to be her one true love, Arthur ‘Boy’ Chapel. Indeed, his death had significant influence on everything in her life.
I don’t want to to give away all the secrets of the story, but will say its not as I once thought. Instead, I encourage you to read this book if you have any interest in fashion, perfume, marketing or notable figures in history.
You will learn the details of where this signature scent was derived from (did she really think of it?), how it was concocted, the brilliant whisper marketing campaign Coco launched (I took notes on that one!), her sale of the scent’s ownership in the mid-1920s (who knew!), the difficulties of production during WWII, her struggle to buy back the scent (repeatedly), the sometimes brilliant – but sometimes completely off base – advertising campaigns, and so much more. A very interesting read, indeed.
So where should a woman wear perfume, according to Coco? “Wherever one wants to be kissed.” Sounds perfect.